Downhill Knee

The descents from Conic Hill, the final one into Fort William and, worst of all, into Kinlochleven are things to fear if you suffer Downhill Knee but Lynne and I have a story for optimism.
In days BC (Before Children) we did a great deal of walking, including a couple of trips to the top of the big fella itself, Ben Nevis. For over 20 years, our walking challenges were considerably reduced and when we began to test ourselves again, we discovered that, though we could get up the hills, we both suffered terribly coming down again with knee pain. We have chosen routes to avoid severe descents and purchased walking poles which we used to reduce the stress of downhill. We thought that our hill walking days were largely over.
However, a conversation with our son who has had some knee problems in early life and had been researching the subject has given us new optimism and, I believe, a more comfortable future with a return to more taxing environments.
His research suggested that the problem came from the knee being bent inward out of the natural line of the leg movement combined with weak muscle structure which was only made worse by avoidance.
I began to work on this concept, studying my own leg movement and found that trying to hold my knee joint outward resulted in a feeling of being twine toed. Looking carefully at my feet I realised that actually, this unnatural feeling coincided with my feet pointing directly forward rather than slightly outward.
I carried this forward and began to think I was encountering less problems downhill and bored Lynne to the point where she experimented with the idea hersel;f.
We noted that when going downhill, if we looked down, both of us had our feet pointing outward. We began concentrating on making sure that when we walked downhill our toes pointed directly forward. Through all our practice walks, with considerable downhill sections, we worked at this and found ourselves resorting to our poles less and less.
The outcome of all this is that we carried our poles the whole WHW but only used them about 3 times. The slippery section of Conic Hill descent, largely for balance, some of the section to Rowardennan, again for balance on the scramble sections and a stepped descent in woods which I cannot recall where but the length and height of the steps was much easier to deal with with poles.
Neither of us resorted to poles on the horrible descent to Kinlochleven but both concentrated on keeping toes pointing directly forward all the way. We arrived at the town with tired muscles but very little knee pain.
If you try it, stick with it for a while and we'd love to know how you go on via the Comments.

Insects

I've been asked on Twitter about insects so I thought I'd comment here.
We were walking between 14 and 21 April and, Insect-wise, it's still a good way before midge season; one reason why we were doing the walk now.
It had been fairly dry on the lead up and the weather during our walk went from overcast and mild to hot and sunny though hazy with a little overnight rain.
We did encounter the odd small cloud woken up by the sun, usually at the end of the afternoon near woodland but these were insignificant quantities. We did opt to use a little bit of repellent but mainly around ankles to stop the odd insect in the heather from heading up trouser legs and biting when we were sitting down for lunch.
No encounters with tics, horseflies, wasps or hornets but we did see the odd Butterfly and Bumble Bee.
Locals again talking of the Avon Skin-So-Soft Dry Oil Spray being very good. Apparently, the midges do still land and may be found stuck to your skin but Don't Bite. There's nothing that deals with the nuisance factor of them clouding around your face.

More to come so Please Come Back

Over the next few days when I have a decent Internet link at home, I plan to add

• Some more Photo's * done 9/5
• A bit about the overall walk
• Something about painful knees * done 25/4
• Our votes for our best B&B and Hotel stops

Please come back and feel free to comment, we'd love to hear from you.
Ged & Lynne

Done:

• Photos added 9/5/11
• Downhill Knee post 25/4/11
• Comments opened to Anyone/Anon - previously unintentionally set to Account Holders only.25/4/11
• spellings corrected throughout 25/4/11

Day 8 Kinlochleven - Fort William

So, that was the West Highland Way.
The day started with a big ascent immediately from our hotel after our final full Scottish breakfast. Not good for thew digestion but it was good to get the climb over before the day got hotter which it did. Although a tough ascent with a good number of brief rest stops, we are much fitter than at Conic Hill on day 2 and our breathing under stress and the distance before legs complain is pretty good.
The top opens to wonderful wide brochure and film set highland and much of the day continues a comparatively easy if not long walk through this. After 3 x 10 mile days, everything seems to go on for a long way but it's another sunny bright day and it is a delight to be up here.
Whilst walking the Way, there is a wonderful camaraderie where everyone acknowledges each other and you spot and pass backwards and forwards many others. Today we kept exchanging places with an extended German family and 3 ladies who we hadn't seen before but were very jolly to greet repeatedly. 
There is a significant attrition rate on this walk, we had heard of a young German girl with a party of 3 lads who had trapped a nerve in her shoulder and was in severe pain. Yesterday we saw them descending to Kinlochleven and she seemed on the verge of collapse with miles to go. The boys were looking after her well, carrying all her camping gear as well as their own and constantly checking. Today we saw the 3 young guys minus the girl, clearly she had reached the end of what her body could take. Everyone thinks of the impact on feet and legs but even with day packs for 8 days, shoulders take a battering and full camping gear is a serious load. Many people are clearly struggling on valiantly in the face of severe pain in one location or another.

About 3/4 through the day reveals the first sight of Ben Nevis. I was surprised to find a great significance in seeing this bruiser of a mountain, having been up with Lynne twice around 30 years ago, I found it offered a purpose and achievement to approaching Fort William which in my book is sadly a disappointing town.
We again face a long descent toward Fort William which is still about 5 miles after you first see the outskirts eventually reaching the road in Glen Nevis. From here, it is simply a road walk into town which seems incongruous after days of being away from traffic and tarmac.
Being in a town after so many days remote feels very strange, the size and motion of cars feels a little threatening and people are dressed in normal cloths rather than boots and week old outdoor clothes. The feeling is changed, people don't say hello to every stranger passing and there is no shared experience with them. We are wondering about other walkers we have shared this and where they are now.
We carry on through town and eventually along the high street to the far end and the new finish point. There are very few confirmation signs and you feel a little isolated as you walk among shoppers and ambling tourists, however, walkers coming back from the finish to the hotels or to the pubs greet you and "Well Done" is repeatedly exchanged. We also encounter Carol and John who we have met repeatedly and been in the same B&B twice. The recommend the beer in the Grog and Gruel and had enjoyed a couple already.
At the finish, we are greeted and cheered by the 3 ladies mentioned earlier as we cross the silver line in the pavement which is lovely. Photo's taken with the walker sculpture, we walk the pattern of the Way which is etched into the paving before heading to the Grog & Gruel for our final passport stamp and our certificate. We sit contented and down a fine pint before wandering happily back to our lodgings for the next 2 nights.

Track distance includes traversing Fort William to the new end point and again to our hotel the far side of the rail station.
Day 8 GPS track - Dist: 17.3 Miles Total Ascent: 2137 ft

Day 7 Kingshouse - Kinlochleven

We really liked Kingshouse Hotel last night, good food and atmosphere and fantastic location. We headed off toward Glen Coe which in the gentle mists and ever present haze looked it's sultry brooding self.
The main ascent this morning took us up the Devil's Staircase which, if encountered earlier in the week, would have been a killer but we are now pretty fit and muscles and lungs put up with a lot more. That said, it was hard work but it finished suddenly and satisfactorily so was rewarding with a real feel of height gained looking down to the road and Buachaille Etive Mor towering the other side of the valley. Here we reached the highest point on the Way marked by twin cairns and left the Glen Coe and Etive valleys behind.
It has been another sunny warm day but again the haze has faded the surrounding mountains to mere hints and shadows. The shoulder of Ben Nevis was barely detectable from the summit of our climb.
It is a long, long descent down to Kinlochleven at sea level from around 1800ft.
7 days so far with about 20 mins of drizzle on day 1 and 2 drops or rain on day 6. Hasrained overnight but not on us.
Kilnlochleven is smarter than I remember it 30 years ago. I remember it feeling as if RTZ had only just walked out and left the area run down and messy.  It's now quite a pleasant small town though we're away from the centre of town just on the Way as it leaves for Fort William tomorrow.
Day 7 GPS track - Dist: 10.73 Miles Total Ascent: 1066 ft

Day 6 Inveroran - Kingshouse

 Well, we considered rain, mist and even snow as problems for this section which we had looked forward to but never considered the obstacle of a warm sunny day on which haze would fade out the far hills. Really can't complain I guess and the close views were gorgeous on this wild open upland section.  We did have 2 or 3 drops of rain as we cleared from lunch but nothing more.
Last night was a bit worrying as I my right hip seemed to be out of kilter and it felt as is an old back problem was imminent. It was still a problem this morning but once walking seemed to release. I suspect is was using the waist strap of my day pack which I realised was restricting my natural movement slightly.  Lynne seems to have passed a problem with her feet,the shorter easier day seems to have worked wonders.
The Inveroran Hotel was lovely and we set off immediately into the day's open vistas. The walk today was largely on old disused roads with compacted rock surfaces, a nightmare for those pushing on through the pain of blistered feet. These roads were built by Thomas Telford replacing the old military roads further up the hillside. Telford had the advantage of bridge building technology so could stay lower crossing wider streams and smoothing the contours whilst the old military roads ran between fordable points on the streams higher up.
Sorry - should have written 'Burns' instead of 'streams' there as we're in Scotland.
For those doing the 20 miles day here, including Andy and Clare, the time from first sight of the Kingshouse Hotel to actually getting there must seem an eternity. It's one of those points that looks like you're almost there but you're a good way off. OK when you've only done 10 miles but must drag when you're at the end of a 20 mile day.
We saw deer a few times today. the Inveroran Hotel leave food scraps out and have a large female visit constantly they have called Daisy. We saw her last night when we ventured out. We saw some truly wild on the hills and then several male and female around the Kingshouse Hotel were we are staying tonight who also feed them scraps. Wonderful looking creatures.
Managed to break my new camera from Christmas; a clumsy bit handling while walking and I dropped it and as with toast butter side down it had to fall screen side down and the lovely big view screen is now a spiders web of cracks and no display at all. Fortunately, we have my previous camera in the main luggage about which for several days we have asking why we were carrying that additional weight; well, now we know.
Lovely food and drink in the hotel bar tonight followed by a Ben Nevis malt - very nice.
Popped out to look at the stars but at 22:00 there is still a lot of light in the sky being this far north so a little disappointing.
Day 6 GPS track - Dist: 10.73 Miles Total Ascent: 1066 ft

Day 5 Tyndrum - Inveroran

Today was short run of 10 miles from Tyndrum to the Inveraran Hotel.

Felt a little as if cheating doing so short a day but the beautiful sunny day combined with wonderful open country was a treat to savour. We have now reached what Lynne and I were looking forward to seeing from the walkers' view having driven through the area many times past. Amazing high hills in the distance and above us and the views are becoming magnificent. Huge open glaciated valleys and curving hillsides.

Most of today was on good tracks, many of which were sections of the roads I drove my Ford Cortina mkII along as a nineteen year old in 1972 en route to climbing in Glen Coe and exploring the Isle of Skye. The modern roads are very different sweeping through and it is amazing how nature is reclaiming the old roads with only scraps of the Tarmac apparent leaving the stone beds of the old military roads.

An easy satisfying day and we can't be in too bad nick because we ambled down the road a little after our showers and stood taking in the hills and the light by a babbling byrne.

The Inveraron Hotel is lovely, food was great and we bumped into John and Carol again. Apparently they only have a bath rather than a proper shower which would have disappointed us but ours is fine.

Two more short days ahead at approx 10 miles each. Surely our luck can't hold much longer with the weather?  I hope so.

Day 5 GPS track - Dist: 10.17 Miles Total Ascent: 1247 ft

A few words about Total Ascent

Total Ascent is not an indication of how high we go but how much we climb upward.
If we climb 300 ft and then descent 400 ft ending 100 ft lower, our TA is still 300 ft as that's what we climbeb up.
If we go over 5 hills, each 200 ft high and each time go down a valley 200 ft deep we would end at the same height but our TA would be 1000 ft.

Day 4 Inverarnan - Tyndrum

We didn't order sun, where did that come from?  Stunning day if not a little too warm for walking.

A nice mix today with a proper feel of getting into the Highlands. Lovely views in all directions and we have travelled old military roads along hillsides as well as river valleys with rapids and falls and woodland. The forest above Crianlarich was beautiful with the paths golden with spruce needles contrasting against the brilliant lime green of the leaves of the wood sorrel. Necks and faces are a little rosier than they should be; we had sun cream... in the main packs, oops.
For the first time we have not gone down again losing all the height gained which is satisfying and easier on the knees. From not much above sea level we reached a peak at about 1200 ft but only dropped back down to 800 ft.   We have also celebrated passing half mileage as well as tonight being half way time wise.
Last night, we stayed and ate in the Drovers, a very characterful hotel best summed up as built a long time ago and little done to in since. A band was on later but we were very tired but we did nip over for three numbers and it was a classic bagpipes, banjo, mandolin and drum ensemble which had the bar banging the tables and whooping. Rather good actually but we needed sleep.
Cracking B&B tonight at Tyndrum. We've even had our washing done and good Internet access after a few days with none.
We have become passing friends with two other couples we keep meeting but have said goodbye to Andy and Clare tonight as they head off to go a day ahead of us with a 20 miler tomorrow which they are not looking forward to. Not seen John and Carol today except for a glance in the distance just before we stopped for lunch.
Still tired but muscles and lungs seem to have cottoned on at last to what we're doing. Some foot soreness but nothing serious at the moment and we have 2 easy days of 9 Miles each ahead.
Day 4 GPS track - Dist: 12.77 Miles  Total Ascent: 2142 ft

Big Respect

As we progress along this route with our main packs transported by day, proper beds, breakfast cooked for us, packed lunches bought and evening meals in pubs, we have developed a great new respect for our son who did this aged 17 with 4 other venture scouts working toward his Chief Scouts Award carrying everything including canvas tent and steel poles.
To Andrew, and all other doing it that way; Well done, we are not worthy.

Day 3 - Rowardanan - Inveroran

Tired. Lying on bed and legs are tingling. 3 days now and 16.5 miles today with another 12 tomorrow,
Today was taxing but enjoyable. The early lower path along Loch Lomond is now closed having been reclaimed by the Loch over the winter. This is probably permanent as it seems the Loch made it's intent very clear.The high road forest track is still a good route and though uphill covers the few miles much faster than the lake shore route would have; this was all probably a good thing as it was a full day anyway.

In the northern section of Loch Lomond the path is often a scramble and is very slow and hard on muscles stepping up and over and round rocks and tree roots.
Saw (and smelled) amazing wild mountain goats on the steep oak wooded slopes. also, at the end of a 12 mile stretch of often barely walkable path, we met 3 mountain bikers who already looked fed up going the other way - how they would go on carrying the bikes through the twist and turns and under low rocks and branches I really don't know. They may still be there?
We keep seeing 4 or 5 groups of people who are on the route at the same time, Often passing each other as we stop for a break or meal. Two couples have been at some of the same B&Bs as us and even when we're not we've bumped into each other at an evening meal in the pub.
We left Loch Lomond behind late afternoon and started to enter more wild and open land with views of the high hills. The last views back down the Loch were beautiful though a little gray. The weather continues dry but with mist hiding the tops. Even though we are only carrying day packs very hot backs are the order of the day.
No Internet or mobile signal again so a bulk blog upload soon I hope,
Day 3 GPS track - Dist: 16.64 Miles  Total Ascent: 2397 ft

Day 2 Drymen - Rowardanan

The first thing to say about today is that it was longer than expected. The last 2 miles seemed to last forever and nature throws in a 400 ft climb in Ross Wood just before the end  to add pain. Two couples from our first B&B are here tonight and we all met with another chap in the local hostelry and everyone agreed that today has been a tough day with the last 2 miles seeming to last forever. We also all GPS clocked it at about 15.5 Mi having expected 13.5 - 14.
Conic Hill was our first real highpoint of the walk so far with great views across Loch Lomond. They should have been AMAZING views but unfortunately it was not a clear day and many hills were obscured. The ascent was an effort but the 1000 ft steep decent was a bit of a killer. Some wiseguy had spent a fortune on granite paving which was useless as it is smooth and steep so everyone avoids it and extends the erosion. Go and talk to the guys in the Peak District - they understand how to put rock down and leave purchase for your boots!
Today felt properly on the walk where as yesterday felt like just getting away from Glasgow. Wonderful views of lochs and mountains are surfacing and it was a nice mix of forest, open country, hills, lakeside and woods.
Arrived at Coille Mhor guest house knackered and hot thinking we had to walk the mile down to the hotel for food later to be greeted by an offer of a lift. I love these owners! Excellent Tatties, Neaps, Haggis and whisky sauce with lashings of Chenin Blanc and the world seems a better place. As the light faded, looking up the Loch from the Rowardennan Hotel, the hills layer in front of each other into the distance behind silver waters, a wonderful view to end the day. Early to bed then prompt away for a long day tomorrow.
A final note about this place. Not just no Internet or mobile signal at all but no TV, not even analogue. They have TVs but just playing videos and DVDs. (no posting this tonight then)
Day 2 GPS track - Dist: 15.42 Miles  Total Ascent: 2222 ft

Day 1 Milngavie - Drymen

Day 1 completed. An almost strangely smooth day with breakast, book in luggage transfer service, buy sandwiches and set off followed by a very straightforward walk.

We had our photo' taken at the start obelisk by a guy who played with Alex Fergusson at Queen's Park and allowed ourselves to be convinced to buy a "passport" to get stamps along the Way - remeniscent of our kids Eurocamp passports to be stamped at different campsites when on holiday in France. Getting a stamp later proved a reason to visit Drumgoyne distilliary where we picked up a miniature to be enjoyed one evening.
The early part of the walk was through Mugdock wood, which sounds like a Harry Potter place and for some reason I kept thinking, "There's been a Mugdock" - it just seemed to fit the "been a Murrda" from TV.
Much of the walk was along old rail trackbeds and seemed to be getting away from the start point rather than a walk in itself. About 4 miles in, the country opens out and though much of the rest of the day is rather monotonous trackbed, the mountains are appearing ahead and Loch Lomond to our left.
Though we started with mist on the hills and had our hoods up in light rain for about 20 mins, the end of the day has patches of clear sky and is very mild.
We have just walked into Dryman about 0.5 Mi each way for a meal and a couple of pints in what claimed to be the oldest pub in Scotland.
Wi-Fi in this B&B so uploading now.
Total today 14 miles plus about a mile for the pub tonight.

At the Start

Sitting in the guest house, Best Foot Forward, after an excellent and surprisingly cheap meal in very pleasent surroundings at The Cross Keys, I'm not sure when this will be uploaded as there is no open Wi-Fi nearby.
We travelled up via Manchester to Glasgow Central where we pointlessly walked down to the Clyde before returning and settling in the Arrol bar on the station concourse for lunch and to pass time. We later took the 25 minute local train to Milngavie, the starting point for the walk arriving at the B&B for 4 o'clock to a very pleasent welcome from Morag.
Carrying our full packs today made us very glad that we are using the luggage transfer service. 25 mins home to local station and the walk in Glasow and then to the guest house was quite enough. Tomorrow morning we split into day pack and main pack.
Chatted on the train to guy next to me who was quite excited and wondering how different Scotland would be. As we pulled into Glasgow he disappointedly observed it was just like coming into Manchester or Liverpool. The more we travel, the more we observe how everywhere seems to compare to somewhere else you know.
Milngavie is an odd town. This afternoon and evening (Wed) there was hardly anyone about. It's a pleasent little pedestrianised centre which feels like it should be touristy but seems to be just an everyday very small town. Not figured it really but it's pleasent. The WHW start obelisk is in the middle of the shopping area. I think our start photo tomorrow could well be taken by the Big Issue seller.

Here in the Sun

Sitting in this sunny warm Sunday afternoon, we've just looked at the weather for the next 2 weeks and it's forecast to rain Every Day of the walk, with SNOW in Fort William! Basically miserable.. however, mid-range forecasts are usually wrong so here's hoping. A good reminder of warm gear and waterproofs but rather deflating
We did our last preparitory walk yesterday; 15.8 miles but with little ascent at 800ft; for those that know the area, home to The Cage at Lyme Park and back.  It was very warm and showed that hot feet suffer more as mine are a little sore this morning. Anyway, 4 days to the walk so need to start getting things together.
Next blog will hopefully be from Milngavie having completed our journey up.

Getting Closer

For the past 2 weeks we have upped the anti' after having worked out our route properly. We have based on Day 3 which appears to be the hardest. Last weekend, we did 14.6 Mi and 3,800 ft total ascent out of Edale and over the Mam Tor - Lose Hill ridge then Win Hill, Ladybower reservoir shore and back to Edale. Yesterday, 15.8 Mi and 2,750 ft on the Cheshire - Staffordshire border from Danebridge. Each weekend, we have followed the big Saturday walk with a 5 mile walk on the Sunday just to revisit feet and muscle strain.
We're feeling more confident. One more weekend to go then it's for real.