Friday 22 April 2011

Day 8 Kinlochleven - Fort William

So, that was the West Highland Way.
The day started with a big ascent immediately from our hotel after our final full Scottish breakfast. Not good for thew digestion but it was good to get the climb over before the day got hotter which it did. Although a tough ascent with a good number of brief rest stops, we are much fitter than at Conic Hill on day 2 and our breathing under stress and the distance before legs complain is pretty good.
The top opens to wonderful wide brochure and film set highland and much of the day continues a comparatively easy if not long walk through this. After 3 x 10 mile days, everything seems to go on for a long way but it's another sunny bright day and it is a delight to be up here.
Whilst walking the Way, there is a wonderful camaraderie where everyone acknowledges each other and you spot and pass backwards and forwards many others. Today we kept exchanging places with an extended German family and 3 ladies who we hadn't seen before but were very jolly to greet repeatedly. 
There is a significant attrition rate on this walk, we had heard of a young German girl with a party of 3 lads who had trapped a nerve in her shoulder and was in severe pain. Yesterday we saw them descending to Kinlochleven and she seemed on the verge of collapse with miles to go. The boys were looking after her well, carrying all her camping gear as well as their own and constantly checking. Today we saw the 3 young guys minus the girl, clearly she had reached the end of what her body could take. Everyone thinks of the impact on feet and legs but even with day packs for 8 days, shoulders take a battering and full camping gear is a serious load. Many people are clearly struggling on valiantly in the face of severe pain in one location or another.

About 3/4 through the day reveals the first sight of Ben Nevis. I was surprised to find a great significance in seeing this bruiser of a mountain, having been up with Lynne twice around 30 years ago, I found it offered a purpose and achievement to approaching Fort William which in my book is sadly a disappointing town.
We again face a long descent toward Fort William which is still about 5 miles after you first see the outskirts eventually reaching the road in Glen Nevis. From here, it is simply a road walk into town which seems incongruous after days of being away from traffic and tarmac.
Being in a town after so many days remote feels very strange, the size and motion of cars feels a little threatening and people are dressed in normal cloths rather than boots and week old outdoor clothes. The feeling is changed, people don't say hello to every stranger passing and there is no shared experience with them. We are wondering about other walkers we have shared this and where they are now.
We carry on through town and eventually along the high street to the far end and the new finish point. There are very few confirmation signs and you feel a little isolated as you walk among shoppers and ambling tourists, however, walkers coming back from the finish to the hotels or to the pubs greet you and "Well Done" is repeatedly exchanged. We also encounter Carol and John who we have met repeatedly and been in the same B&B twice. The recommend the beer in the Grog and Gruel and had enjoyed a couple already.
At the finish, we are greeted and cheered by the 3 ladies mentioned earlier as we cross the silver line in the pavement which is lovely. Photo's taken with the walker sculpture, we walk the pattern of the Way which is etched into the paving before heading to the Grog & Gruel for our final passport stamp and our certificate. We sit contented and down a fine pint before wandering happily back to our lodgings for the next 2 nights.

Track distance includes traversing Fort William to the new end point and again to our hotel the far side of the rail station.
Day 8 GPS track - Dist: 17.3 Miles Total Ascent: 2137 ft

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